Western Serengeti has a mix of woodland, grass plains and marshes, fringed by hills.
Kopjes,
or inselbergs, are found in many areas, and are popular places for many animals, among
these the big cats. The park is estimated to host 3,000 lions,
300 cheetahs, and 250 leopards.
There are also 7,500 spotted hyaenas, Africa's second largest carnivores.
The migration
In the north, Serengeti borders Kenyan Masai Mara National
Reserve. The migration,
i.e. huge herds of ever-wandering wildebeest and zebras, moves between grazing areas
in these two parks. These herds and normally found in Serengeti from December to June.
Many television documentaries showing the African savanna and wildlife were shot in
Serengeti National Park, and many of them show the migrating herds crossing the Grumeti
and Mara rivers within the park.
Typical savanna
Because of the qualities of the park, Serengeti is an obvious destination on many safaris
in northern Tanzania. The wildlife is very rich and varied, as is the bird life, and
the landscape offers those views of the typical savanna that you have come all the way
to Africa to see.
Serengeti is the most remote of the main parks of northern Tanzania, and parts of the
road getting there can be in poor condition at times; they may be bumpy, corrugated
and dusty. If you think such roads are not a very nice way to travel, you may reach
Serengeti in about one hour by air from Arusha.
There are daily scheduled flights to the central (Seronera), northern (Lobo) and western
(Grumeti) parts of the park.
Neighbouring parks
Serengeti National Park is bordered by a number of nature protected areas, acting as
buffers towards the surrounding rural areas. These areas include Ngorongoro
Conservation Area (to the south-east), Maswa Game Reserve (south), Singita Grumeti
Reserves (north-west) and Ikorongo Game Reserve (north-west).
Seronera and central Serengeti
Seronera Valley, or just Seronera, is the central part of Serengeti, regarded by
many to be the best area for game viewing in the park. It is a transition zone between
the open grass savanna to the south and the more densely vegetated tree and shrub savanna
to the north. Such transition zones are generally good areas for game viewing, as they
can support a wider span of species.
The Seronera River is a permanent source of drinking water, never drying out, and one
more type of habitat for birds, mammals and reptiles, for example hippos and crocodiles.
Elephants and herds of buffalos, wildebeest and zebras come here to drink. In the mornings
and evenings, roosting marabou storks and vultures are seen in numbers in the trees
that line the river, and the African fish eagle is regularly seen.
The southern half of Seronera is mainly typical savanna, with open grassland, flat-top
acacias, patches of woodland and riverbeds lined with trees. Areas scattered by kopjes
are popular with the big cats; lions, cheetahs and leopards. The northern half is dominated
by shrubby woodland, which continues extensively to the north.
Gol, Ndutu and the south
Most visitors enter the park from the south-east, arriving from Ngorongoro
Conservation Area. This is where you find the vast short grass plains that have
given the park its name in the language of the Maasai:
siringet, 'the endless plains'. Shrubs and trees are scarce, mainly found in
kopje areas such as Gol Kopjes. The rocks and vegetation of the kopjes offer shelter
and food to antelopes and hyrax, as well as to cats. The grass plains are a typical
habitat for Grant's and Thomson's gazelles, which are hunted by cheetahs.
The few rhinoceros that still remain in Serengeti are found in the Moru Kopjes area
further north, where the grass plains transform into savannas, and where hills of sedimentary
rock break the horizon.
Lake Ndutu
Lake Ndutu is situated in the very south, where Serengeti borders Ngorongoro Conservation
Area. This soda
lake is set in a patch of woodland, surrounded by the grass plains. This is usually
a very good area during January to March, when the migration occupies the plains, attracting
cats and other carnivores.
Lobo and the north
The Lobo area is named after the granite Lobo Hills in the northern parts of Serengeti
National Park, some 80 km/50 mi along the bush road north from Seronera towards the
Kenyan border and Masai Mara. This route is mainly bordered
by shrubby woodland, a typical environment for impalas and giraffes. Once you reach
the Lobo area, the landscape opens up into a mix of grassland, rivers, hills and woodland.
The peak season, as to wildlife, is usually November to December, when the southbound
migration is passing on its way to the plains of southern Serengeti. Non-migrating species,
such as elephants, antelopes, buffalos and cats, can be seen throughout the year.
This part of the Serengeti is less visited than the southern and central areas, and
during low seasons, you may spend most of your game driving time without meeting other
visitors. A lodge,
a few tented
camps and a very basic camping
site provide accommodation in Lobo, and an airstrip offers a comfortable way of getting
there, should you prefer not to travel by road.
Some shrubby areas, especially west of the main road, are favoured by tsetse flies,
which have a nasty bite and can, even though this is very uncommon, carry sleeping sickness.
From Lobo, you can continue further north within the park, but you cannot cross the
Kenyan border into Masai Mara. The border crossing is closed.
The Western corridor
Travelling to the west from Seronera in central Serengeti, you drive through shrubby
woodland. The area isn't very beautiful, but you may see impalas, bat-eared foxes, banded
mongoose, dikdiks, giraffes, lions and other mammals. It is often a good area for birds
of prey, such as bateleurs, long-crested eagles and goshawks.
The area further west is called the Western corridor. This is where the northbound migration
passes in June, headed for Kenyan Masai Mara in the far north. Here, the herds have
to do one of the risky river crossings as seen on nature documentaries, as the Grumeti
River, one of the major rivers in the Serengeti, is cutting straight through their route.
The crocodiles of the Grumeti are known to grow very big because of this.
The Western corridor offers various habitats; grassland, woodland, hills, marshes and
gallery forests lining the Grumeti River. A few luxury tented camps and lodges are situated
in the far parts of the corridor, and may be accessed by road or air. Even further west,
you reach the park border and Lake Victoria beyond.
The migration
You may visit Serengeti all year round, but a prime time for visits is when the migration
is present, from December to June. You may want to avoid the 'long rains' in AprilMay,
though, as many smaller roads and bush tracks are difficult or impossible to access
due to rain and mud; the black cotton soil found in many parts of Serengeti makes an
impassable mud when wet.
The migration consists of up to 1.5 million wildebeest and a few hundred thousand zebras
migrating between pastures, mostly appearing in smaller herds, but occasionally congregating
into enormous herds, counting hundreds of thousands.
The migration mainly follows the same route every year, wandering south from Masai Mara
in Kenya in November, to reach the plains of southern Serengeti to spend the months
up to the long rains in this area. The calves and foals are born during this stay in
the south. When the long rains come, the herds start moving north-west, reaching the
Western corridor in June, where the main herd crosses the Grumeti River and continues
north out of Serengeti National Park towards Masai Mara. Smaller herds may choose an
eastern route on their way to the Mara, staying within Serengeti National Park.
The whereabouts of the herds isn't predictable in detail, as they are constantly in
search for the best grazing. Local rainfall boosts the re-growth of grass and diverts
the herds.
The Big Five
Many safari-goers want to see the Big
Five, which means the five mammal species African elephant, rhinoceros, African
buffalo, lion and leopard. All of them can be seen in Serengeti, but you should not
expect that to happen. The few rhinos still remaining are all found in just one area,
the Moru Kopjes, and even if you go there, your chances of spotting them are not very
good. To see rhinoceros, you should include a visit to the Ngorongoro
Crater in your itinerary, where chances are much better.
The other four elephant, buffalo, lion and leopard are seen by many visitors.
The most difficult one to spot out of these is usually the leopard, due to it's secretive
habits, but the Serengeti may be the best park in East Africa for observing leopards,
so seeing it is far from unlikely. In fact, close to all groups that we have travelled
with have seen at least one leopard in Serengeti.
The cheetah is not one of the Big Five, but it is one of Africa's three big cats and
a popular animal to see. It is often seen, mostly from Seronera and southwards, but
also in other areas, such as Lobo. September to October is often a good time for spotting
cats in general. These months are the last during a long dry season, so the grass is
short and the deciduous trees and shrubs have lost their leaves to conserve water, which
makes the vegetation less dense. As a result, cats and other animals are easier to find.
Birds
The bird life of Serengeti is rich. One particular bird will probably catch your eye
even if you have little interest in birds otherwise: the ostrich, which may be found
in grasslands.
If you're into birds, they will keep you busy throughout your visit. The wide range
of habitats allows for many different birds. Ground hornbill, kori bustard, helmeted
guineafowl, lilac-breasted roller, little bee-eater, woodland kingfisher, usambiro barbet,
silverbird, white-headed buffalo weaver, long-tailed starling and crowned lapwing are
some of the species seen on every safari. Black crake, saddle-billed stork, goliath
heron and others may be seen closer to water.
Birds of prey
Birds of prey are plentiful. Some species seen on most safaris are bateleur, tawny eagle,
African fish eagle, secretary bird, lesser kestrel, black-shouldered kite and dark chanting
goshawk. Not as common, but regularly seen, are martial eagle, long-crested eagle and
pygmy falcon. The white-backed, Rüppel's griffon, lappet-faced and hooded vultures
are common, and the white-headed vulture seen occasionally.
Lodges and camps
There are a number of lodges and tented camps in the Serengeti area, both inside
the national park and in the areas bordering it. In addition, some safari tour
operators have their own mobile camps, which are pitched seasonally or when needed,
usually in "controlled/special camp sites" (i.e. camp sites that can
be booked exclusively, and that are not open for campers); such private mobile
camps are not listed below. "Public camp sites" for camping are found
mainly in Seronera in central Serengeti. Seronera
and central Serengeti
Seronera
Wildlife Lodge has the most central location among the lodges in Serengeti. It is built in a
kopje,
and has good views of the savanna to the west of the observation terrace. There are 75 tourist class
rooms, restaurant and bar. Hyrax, mongoose and agama lizards are often seen within the lodge area,
and all kinds of animals may be seen in the surrounding bush.
More about Seronera Wildlife
Lodge Web site: www.hotelsandlodges-tanzania.com
|
|
Serengeti
Sopa Lodge in the south-western parts of central Serengeti is built on a hill and has good savanna
views. The lodge has 80 rooms, restaurant, bar, swimming pool and gift shop. The standard is good.
More
about Serengeti Sopa Lodge Web site: www.sopalodges.com
|
|
Bilila
Lodge Kempinski is a fairly new lodge offering very high standard. Its 77 rooms makes it one
of the largest in Serengeti, and its design makes it rather a modern designer hotel than a traditional
safari lodge.
More about Bilila Lodge Kempinski
Web site: www.kempinski.com
|
|
Ikoma
Tented Camp is a tourist class tented camp situated outside the park border of central Serengeti.
It has 31 tents, a restaurant and a good bush feeling. The camp offers bush walks and night game
drives.
Web site: www.moivaro.com
|
|
Grumeti
Luxury Tented Camp is a new tented camp situated outside the park border of central Serengeti,
not very far from the Grumeti River. It has eight tents with ensuite bathrooms and verandas. The
central area has restaurant, bar, viewing deck and fireplace. A swimming pool is planned. The camp
offers game drives, bush walks, bird watching and balloon safaris. Children younger than seven years
are not allowed in the camp.
Web site: www.ecolodgeafrica.com
|
|
Serengeti Medium Camp has 20 tents with ensuite bathroom. It's set in the Makoma Hill area
west of Seronera in central Serengeti. Meals are served in a mess tent.
The owners use the description "mobile camp", but it doesn't appear to be moved between
different sites, so with our difinition it's not a mobile camp.
Web site: www.tanganyikawildernesscamps.com
|
Grumeti Wildlife Camp is a planned sister camp to Grumeti Luxury Tented Camp, planned to open
early in 2010. It is to be situated some 5 km/3 mi from its sister camp and to offer lower range
standard and pricing.
Mbuzi Mawe is a new luxury tented camp built in a kopje north of
Seronera in central Serengeti, off the road that goes north towards Lobo. It has
16 spacious tents, restaurant, bar and gift shop. Web site: www.serenahotels.com
Gol, Ndutu and the south
Ndutu
Safari Lodge (Ngorongoro Conservation Area) is situated close to soda lake Lake Ndutu on the
border between south-eastern Serengeti National Park and western Ngorongoro
Conservation Area (the lodge is on the NCA side of the border). The area can be very good for game
viewing from December to March, when vast numbers of animals may be present. The Ndutu area is generally
good for cats.
More about Ndutu Safari Lodge
Web site: www.ndutu.com
|
Lake
Masek Tented Camp is a new tented camp close to Lake Masek in western Ngorongoro Conservation
Area, i.e. in the Lake Ndutu area. The camp has 20 tents and a restaurant. The activities offered
include game drives, bush walks and night game drives.
Web site: www.tanganyikawildernesscamps.com
|
Kusini is an exclusive tented camp with 12 tents
in southern Serengeti, set among kopjes in a remote part of the park where few
visitors come, apart from those staying in the camp. The overall quality and service
is very good, and the location fine for game viewing. The area may be good for
seeing the migration during January to March. Web site: www.kusini.com
Lobo and the north
|
Migration
Camp is a tented camp offering high standard, and is situated by the Grumeti River in the northern
parts of Serengeti. The tents are spacious and comfortable, and have private bathrooms and verandas.
The camp has restaurant, bar and a swimming pool.
More about Migration Camp Web
site: www.elewana.com |
Klein's Camp is an exclusive camp in a private concession just
east of northern Serengeti, not very far from the Kenyan border. It has ten cottages,
restaurant, bar and swimming pool. The safari activities arranged include game
drives at day and night, and bush walks. Web site: www.kleinscamp.com
Sayari Camp is a sister camp of Olakira, and is set in the Mara
River area of northmost Serengeti, and offers the same concept of a small camp
(eight tents) in the middle of the bush and a true safari atmosphere. Driving
off-road is allowed in parts of these northern areas. Web site: www.asilialodges.com Suyan
Camp, sister camp to Olakira and Sayari, is set in Loliondo Game Controlled
Area east of Lobo in northern Serengeti, i.e. outside of the park. This allows
for activities not allowed inside the park, such as night game drives and walking
safaris. There are five guest tents, and the same bush atmosphere as offered by
the sister camps. Web site: www.asilialodges.com
Loliondo Camp is a small camp of five tents in the Loliondo area
just east of Lobo in northern Serengeti. The standard is tourist class, and the
camp area is private and right in the bush. As the camp is outside of the national
park, the activities include not only daytime game drives, but also night game
drives and bush walks.
Web site: www.kirurumu.net
The Western corridor
Kensington
Serengeti Wilderness Camp is a luxury tented camp in the Kirawira area of the Western corridor,
a 20-minute drive from Grumeti airstrip. It has eight tents.
Web site: www.kensingtoncamps.com
|
Mbalageti Serengeti is a fairly new and good lodge in the Western corridor in Serengeti. It has
some 20 rooms and two suites, restaurant, bar, gift shop, swimming pool and good views overlooking the
surroundings.
Web site: www.mbalageti.com
Kirawira Camp is a luxury tented camp set by
the Grumeti River in the Western corridor. The camp has 16 tents, restaurant and
swimming pool. Web site: www.serenahotels.com
Grumeti River Camp is a luxury tented camp situated between Kirawira
Camp and Seronera, i.e. well into the Western corridor. It has ten tents, restaurant,
bar, swimming pool and gift shop.
Web site: www.grumeti.com
Singita Grumeti Reserves
Sabora Tented Camp in private Singita Grumeti Reserves north of the Western corridor in Serengeti
is a luxury camp with six air-conditioned tents with ensuite bathrooms, electronic safes, phone, wireless
Internet, satellite television and heated swimming pool. The camp offers game drives and bush walks, plus
for example badminton, mountain biking, tennis and spa.
Web site: www.singita.com
Sasakwa Lodge is, like its sister camp Sabora, set in private Singita
Grumeti Reserves. This luxury lodge has six cottages and a villa for up to 28
guests all in all. The cottages have air-conditioning, bar, safe, ensuite bathroom,
heated infinity pool etc. Some cottages have wheelchair access. Like Sabora, the
lodge is set close to the bush, but has rather a colonial luxury atmosphere than
a bush feeling. The same typeof activities are offered, plus horse riding.
Web site: www.singita.com
Faru Faru Lodge is, like its sisters Sabora and Sasakwa, set in
private Singita Grumeti Reserves. It has a more contemporary style than its sister
lodges, and faces a waterhole that attracts wildlife. The lodge has six air-conditioned
suites, and offers the same level of luxury and the same kind of activities as
Sabora and Sasakwa. Web site: www.singita.com
Mobile camps Nduara Loliondo Camp
offers accommodation in six spacious and stylish yurts (a kind of mobile tents/huts
originally used by nomads in central Asia), and bush style bathroom facilities;
short drop toilets and bucket showers. This semi-mobile camp is moved twice every
year between areas east of Serengeti National Park, following the migration. The
setting outside of the park allows for night game drives and bush walks.
Web site: www.nduara-loliondo.com
Serengeti Safari Camp is a semi-mobile tented camp pitched in different
areas of Serengeti, including the southern plains, the Western corridor and northmost
Serengeti, depending on the migration season. The camp has six safari tents (for
up to 12 guests) with ensuite bathrooms, and is pitched right in the bush. Expect
a true safari atmosphere. Web site: www.serengeti-safari-camp.com
Olakira Camp is a semi-mobile tented camp moving between southern
(DecemberMarch) and central (JuneNovember) Serengeti depending on
season. It has six traditional safari tents set right in the bush, each with ensuite
bathroom, and two tents for dining and socializing. Web site: www.asilialodges.com
Serengeti Camp (or Kirurumu Serengeti Camp) is a sister camp to
Loliondo Camp, but unlike the latter situated within Serengeti National Park.
It's semi-mobile, moved seasonally to follow the migration and other wildlife;
DecemberMarch in southern Serengeti, from June in the Western Corridor,
and later during the dry season towards Seronera in central Serengeti. Like Loliondo
Camp, it has five tents, and the same standard. Web site: www.kirurumu.net
Lemala Luxury Camp Serengeti is a semi-mobile camp that moves seasonally
between the Ndutu area of southern Serengeti (DecemberMarch) and northern
Serengeti (JuneOctober). The camp has eight guest tents, i.e. capacity for
16 guests. The tents have ensuite bathrooms, and have safari style interiors.
Web site: www.lemalacamp.com
|